The Sound of Soft Power: Inside Sunspel’s Quiet Revolution – An Interview with David Telfer.

In an age when fashion mistakes noise for relevance, Sunspel remains gloriously out of sync - a masterclass in understatement that feels almost radical. It’s not a relic of British heritage but a reminder that true modernity often wears a quieter face. While others chase virality, Sunspel perfects the essential: garments so refined they almost disappear, leaving only the feeling of something impeccably made.

Founded in 1860 by Thomas Arthur Hill, a Nottingham industrialist who treated fabric innovation like alchemy, Sunspel began life spinning Sea Island cotton into fine undergarments - luxuries meant to be felt, not flaunted. Long before the era of “slow fashion” hashtags, Hill understood that integrity of material and purity of design were not trends but tenets.

Unbothered Britishness.

Sunspel’s history reads like a syllabus in modern minimalism. It introduced the T-shirt to Britain, transformed the Riviera Polo Shirt into a cinematic icon for Daniel Craig’s James Bond, and quietly clothed everyone from Steve McQueen’s cool rebellion to Paul Weller’s mod precision. It has collaborated with Comme des Garçons, Studio Nicholson, and even the Design Museum - proof that simplicity, in the right hands, can be avant-garde.

The brand’s power lies in its restraint - what could be called textile soft power. At its Long Eaton factory in Nottinghamshire, every seam, silhouette, and fibre choice is the product of meticulous human touch. In an industry increasingly obsessed with automation and hype, Sunspel’s approach feels like a kind of rebellion through refinement - more Bauhaus than baroque, more Bill Evans than Britpop.

Sunspel doesn’t shout. It doesn’t even raise its voice. Instead, it hums with quiet confidence - the kind that comes from making something so perfectly balanced that it transcends time. Each T-shirt, each polo, each piece of knitwear is a small study in proportion, structure, and texture: sartorial architecture disguised as ease.

As David Telfer, Sunspel’s Design Director, puts it, “Our aim isn’t to dazzle - it’s to endure.” That endurance is its quiet provocation. In a world overdosed on spectacle, Sunspel’s restraint feels almost punk - a refusal to play the algorithmic game of fashion.

In the conversation that follows, Telfer unpacks how the brand continues to evolve without ever losing sight of its soul. How do you reinvent the essential? What does innovation look like when your currency is craft, not chaos? And why does understatement still speak loudest in a world that never stops shouting?

Spoiler: it begins with restraint and ends in obsession.

1. Sunspel’s aesthetic often speaks in a lower register - restrained, refined, but resonant. How do you design for quiet impact in a landscape obsessed with visual noise?

David Telfer: Our product tends to speak for itself the moment you touch or wear it. Many of our customers return because our garments perform over time - that lasting quality cuts through louder, more immediate aesthetics. Designing essential pieces without relying on branding or heavy detailing is a greater challenge, because everything must be perfect.

We put a huge amount of effort into sourcing, design, and fit to ensure that even if a piece appears simple, every element has been carefully considered. That quiet precision is something you can sense, even from a distance.

2. You work within a palette of timeless silhouettes and materials, yet Sunspel never feels dated. What’s the secret to remaining timeless without becoming static?

David Telfer: The key is designing with the intention of creating something timeless. That process starts with exceptional fabric - we spend a lot of time developing fabrics, going right back to the fibre source to ensure quality.

Then we focus on silhouette and detailing to create pieces that are essential and true to size. When you combine a beautiful fabric with the right cut and clean detailing, you create something that lasts - physically and stylistically.

3. A Sunspel tee is deceptively simple - like a sonnet that appears effortless but is structurally meticulous. What goes into refining the ‘perfect’ basic?

Understatement Engineer.

David Telfer: It comes down to meticulous attention to detail. Our Classic T-shirt is still made in our factory in Long Eaton, where it has been produced for over 80 years. The construction of such a lightweight jersey requires real craftsmanship - skills that have been passed down through generations.

It all starts with the perfect yarn: extra-long staple Supima cotton from California, spun as a two-fold yarn and knitted into our iconic Q82 fabric. The shirt then goes through over 15 quality control checks. We finish each piece with a sticker on the care label bearing the name of the person who signed it off - a small but meaningful gesture.

4. Heritage is often a weight for brands, but Sunspel wears its history lightly. How do you preserve authenticity while resisting the trap of nostalgia?

David Telfer: We’re lucky to have an archive and a heritage that dates back to 1860, but rather than replicate old products, we follow the ethos of our founder, which remains surprisingly modern: to use the world’s finest fibres to create understated garments. Back then it was underwear, but that philosophy has guided the way we’ve evolved the brand - preserving our character while continuing to move forward.

5. Where in the design process does the most tension arise - in the pattern, the fabrication, or the colour story? And what’s usually the first compromise?

David Telfer: We never compromise on quality, and we work closely with our technical and production teams to uphold that. The biggest tension tends to come from our desire to grow slowly and intentionally. We only introduce products when they’re absolutely ready. In a tightly curated collection, the challenge is often knowing when to hold back - there are always ideas we’re excited about, but they may have to wait until there’s the right space for them.

6. If you were given carte blanche to create a single, wholly unexpected item for Sunspel - one that speaks in whispers, not shouts - what would it be?

David Telfer: I like to make the most of the skill we have in the UK and would love to work with a British manufacturer to create the perfect Derby shoe to complement our suiting - something beautifully understated and crafted using the Goodyear welting techniques still found in Northampton. It would be quietly elegant, made to last, and designed with the same precision that we bring to our clothing.

7. There’s an emotional precision to Sunspel’s garments - as if they’re designed to calm the nervous system. Is that intentional? Do you think in terms of sensory effect?

David Telfer: Yes, there’s definitely intention behind that. It comes from our roots in underwear - garments that should feel so comfortable that you barely notice them. That philosophy carries through to the rest of the collection. We aim for a refined softness and a sense of ease in everything we make - it’s about creating clothing that feels good against the skin and offers a quiet kind of reassurance.

8. Many describe Sunspel as the cornerstone of a modern uniform. What does that phrase mean to you in an era where personal style has never been more eclectic?

David Telfer: To me, it means offering the essential pieces that form the foundation of a wardrobe. Our garments are reliable and versatile - you can return to them again and again. In an era of eclectic style, having those core items you can trust is more important than ever. They give you the freedom to build and layer your own personal expression.

9. Finally, what is a fabric, detail, or silhouette in the current collection that still stops you in your tracks - no matter how many iterations you’ve seen?

David Telfer: It has to be Sea Island Cotton and the way we use it across the collection. It’s the world’s rarest and finest cotton, and we’ve worked with it for over 100 years. Its extra-long staple gives it a unique softness, lustre, and strength. Right now, I’m especially drawn to our Sea Island Cotton and cashmere blend knitwear - it’s the ultimate trans-seasonal piece: effortlessly soft, refined, and quietly luxurious.

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Words and questions by AW.

Answers courtesy of David Telfer.

Photos courtesy of Sunspel.