Smoke Signals from Across the Tasman: Thomson Whisky Stakes Its Claim at The Oak Barrel.

Down under in the whisky cosmos, Australia has long been the star player - Tasmania seducing critics with silky drams, Victoria cranking out medals like a whisky factory on overdrive. But on a moody Sydney evening at The Oak Barrel - arguably the city’s most revered whisky sanctuary - New Zealand’s Thomson Whisky made a smoky, unapologetic entrance that demanded attention.

For those yet to meet them, Thomson Whisky is the Auckland-based distillery with a bit of punk attitude and a whole lot of soul. Founded in 2009 as an independent bottler bottling rare remnants from the now-extinct Willowbank whisky (a toast to that Dunedin legend), they transitioned to distilling their own spirit in 2014. Since then, they’ve built a reputation on bold experimentation - especially their signature Manuka smoked malts, which have earned acclaim worldwide, including the prestigious 2024 New Zealand Innovation Trophy.

When Manuka smoke meets Aussie soil.

But what truly sets Thomson apart is its namesake and co-founder, Mathew Thomson - a quietly influential figure in New Zealand’s whisky renaissance. From salvaging some of the last casks from Willowbank’s demise to laying the groundwork for a uniquely Kiwi approach to single malt, Thomson has helped shape the country’s modern whisky identity from the ground up. More than a distiller, he’s a provocateur and cultural custodian, pushing boundaries while rooting his craft in provenance and precision.

And that pioneering spirit was on full display at The Oak Barrel, where Mathew Thomson himself - part scientist, part storyteller - led an intimate crowd through a flavour-fuelled odyssey. As one of the few distillers to personally present his wares on Australian shores, his presence turned the evening into more than a tasting; it became a masterclass in vision and authenticity.

The distillery’s philosophy is refreshingly simple yet daring: craft whisky that channels New Zealand’s unique terroir and spirit, with native Manuka wood smoke as its smoky muse. And now, thanks to an exclusive partnership with The Whisky List, Thomson Whisky’s drams are officially available in Australia - a move that promises to shake up the local single malt scene in a very good way.

The flight began with the Two Tone Single Malt, a clever dual maturation marrying American white oak ex-bourbon barrels with French oak that once held New Zealand red wine. The result? A diplomatic dram that’s smooth yet unapologetically complex. On the nose, ripe plum and orange peel flirt with cocoa nibs; the palate offers red berries and salted caramel playing tag with roasted cashews. The finish is a polite whisper of baking spices and wine tannins - a sophisticated handshake from a dram that knows how to play both sides of the fence.

Next up was the South Island Peat Single Malt, a defiant voice in a peat world dominated by Scotland. Unlike the medicinal iodine bombs of Islay, this whisky conjures damp forest floors, burnt sage, and the clean sea air of New Zealand’s rugged South Island. Matured in small 100L and 200L casks, it packs youthful vigour and deep wood influence, delivering smoked toffee, mint, and an unexpected echo of smoked eel. It’s a Southern Gothic peat whisky that feels like Emily Brontë going for a bonfire on the beach.

Then came the jewel in Thomson’s crown: the Manuka Smoke Single Malt. Where peat is king in many whisky traditions, Thomson carves out its own niche with native Manuka wood smoke - a botanical, herbal, and richly nuanced smoke profile. The nose offers campfire herbs, vanilla pods, and smoked rosemary; the palate dances between bay leaf, nutmeg, beeswax, and grilled pineapple. Dry and resinous on the finish, this whisky doesn’t just smoke - it tells stories of wild bushlands under endless Kiwi skies. Winning the 2024 New Zealand Innovation Trophy wasn’t a surprise - it’s poetry in a glass.

When your whisky skips the small talk and kicks down the door in a cloud of smoke and attitude.

Not content with subtlety, the Manuka Smoke Full Noise cranks the volume. With higher ABV and a punchier smoke profile, it delivers burnt orange peel, espresso, pine resin, and cinnamon toast on the palate. The finish is assertive, drying the mouth like a smoke signal declaring that this whisky doesn’t just want your attention - it demands it.

The tasting then drifted into the rarified territory of limited releases. The Allier Limited Release is a smooth operator, aged in rare French Allier oak barrels typically reserved for Cognac. It offers a silky texture and sophisticated notes of hazelnut, candied fig, baked pear, almond skin, and a faint five-spice whisper. Think of it as a French exchange student who swapped Parisian cafés for Auckland surf beaches - elegant but easygoing.

On the wild side, the Cask Martin Limited Release lives up to its name. Rumoured to be sourced from a renegade cooper’s cask, it’s tropical, funky, and deliciously unpredictable. Pineapple jam, tamari, and crushed coriander greet the nose; banana bread, licorice root, and fig leaf roll across the palate. The finish is medium-length, oddly savoury, and lingering - a whisky that keeps you guessing, especially when paired with spicy food. It’s a delicious puzzle wrapped in a mystery.

Then there was The TWL Bourbon Cask - an exclusive bottling for The Whisky List and perhaps the evening’s most understated charmer. Quietly confident and utterly unfussy, it whispered rather than shouted, but still left a lasting impression. Notes of caramel apple and toasted marshmallow curled up beside vanilla husk and a gentle puff of sandalwood, like dessert by a crackling campfire. This dram didn’t lean on theatrics - instead, it seduced with balance and poise. A bourbon lover’s gateway into the Thomson world, it proved that not all the noise has to be Full Noise - sometimes the soft-spoken ones get under your skin the longest.

To close the night, Mathew slipped out a special mystery single Port cask sample - unlabelled, unannounced, but unforgettable. Maple syrup, incense, toasted coconut on the nose led into leather, grilled stone fruit, and smouldering cedar on the palate. The finish seemed to go on forever, the kind of dram that haunts your thoughts long after the glass is empty.

What this tasting ultimately proved is that Thomson Whisky is not content to sit quietly across the Tasman, watching Australia bask in the limelight. With craftsmanship rooted in native ingredients, bold experimentation, and a distinctive voice, Thomson is writing a new chapter in New Zealand’s whisky story - and bringing it straight to Australian shores with the backing of The Whisky List.

So next time someone doubts New Zealand whisky, pour a dram of Manuka Smoke, raise your glass with a smirk, and say: “They don’t just make whisky over there - they own it.”

---

Words and photo by AW.