Quiet Rebellion in Dufftown: An Evening with Kirsten Grant Meikle of House of Hazelwood.
- T
- 1 day ago
- 7 min read
On a rainy Thursday evening in Sydney, fresh off a flight from Melbourne and running on caffeine, adrenaline, and the vague promise of a transcendent dram, I found myself deep in conversation with Kirsten Grant Meikle. The whisky was flowing - expressions from House of Hazelwood that could quietly humble many of their louder peers - but it was her poise, dry wit, and understated conviction that lingered long after the last glass was cleared.
In a whisky world that’s become a circus of shouting rarity, flash sales, and price tags designed to make plutocrats blush, encountering someone quietly steering against the storm felt downright rebellious. Kirsten Grant Meikle, director of House of Hazelwood and fifth-generation William Grant scion, could have easily draped herself in pedigree and coasted on the family name. Instead, she’s busily unraveling the very myths luxury whisky leans on - focusing instead on nuance, honesty, and a real, palpable care for the spirit she shepherds. It’s less about bluster and more about backbone, and honestly, it’s exactly the kind of disruption this gilded playground needs.

For those not yet in the know, House of Hazelwood isn’t just another shiny luxury label jockeying for the spotlight. At its core, it’s less about flash and more about legacy - a meticulously curated archive rather than a flashy aspiration. Born from the Grant family’s private stash, it’s an extraordinary trove of rare, long-aged casks accumulated over seventy years by generations of the Gordon family - Kirsten’s own bloodline. This wasn’t concocted for Instagram buzz or market grabs; it was crafted for family milestones, quiet curiosity, and that rare breed of patient, almost stubborn experimentation that laughs in the face of quarterly sales pressure. In other words, it’s whisky with a long memory and zero interest in the rat race.
When the call came to share these whiskies beyond the family circle, it wasn’t about cashing in or chasing the latest market buzz - or dreaming of a flashy IPO. Nope, the spirits themselves - some languishing in obscurity until recently - demanded a bigger stage. Not for their price tags or auction thrill, but for the stories they whispered and the history they held. Hazelwood didn’t burst onto the scene with a circus of fireworks or a multimillion-dollar makeover. Instead, it sauntered into the spotlight with quiet confidence, moving to its own unhurried rhythm - like a well-aged dram that knows it’s worth the wait.
There’s a quiet confidence in that. Almost defiant.
The name itself tips its hat to Hazelwood House in Dufftown - the longtime residence of Kirsten’s great-aunt Janet Sheed Roberts, a family legend who outlived most mortals and had the kind of iron will that makes a sherry cask seem downright reckless. This legacy isn’t worn like a flashy medal but is woven quietly, almost conspiratorially, into every release. Some whiskies nod to family lore or resurrect long-lost - and occasionally outlawed - production tricks. Others come from casks that were never meant to see the light of day twice. The end result? A collection that reads less like a product catalogue and more like a carefully curated cultural diary, with just enough intrigue to keep you coming back for another sip.

Hazelwood’s model feels almost anachronistic in a whisky world driven by scarcity marketing and speculative buying. But Kirsten isn’t playing that game. She’s curating, not commodifying: What makes Hazelwood stand apart is its absolute refusal to behave like a luxury brand. There are no seasonal drops. No numbered capsule collections. No gimmicks.
Each release at Hazelwood isn’t just a bottle - it’s a full-on editorial coup. From the label’s typography to the name’s whispered backstory, down to the hefty Glencairn-designed crystal bottle - crafted from premium glass with a base so solid it could double as a paperweight - and the gold satin-plated, engraved decanter collar and stopper, every detail is meticulously choreographed to set the mood and tell the story. This isn’t ornamentation for show; it’s storytelling you can hold.
These whiskies don’t merely taste aged - they wear their thoughtfulness like a bespoke suit. And they don’t hit the stage until they’re absolutely ready, having earned their moment in the spotlight. For Hazelwood, this isn’t just a release schedule - it’s a manifesto. While the rest of the whisky world scrambles for fleeting trends, Hazelwood sips patience and plays the long, elegant game.
This ethos extends to every part of the process. Kirsten works with blenders, archivists, and historians, selecting each release with editorial precision and the occasional healthy disagreement. The naming, packaging, and accompanying story aren’t embellishments - they’re integral to the whisky’s identity. Hazelwood isn’t just offering flavour - it’s offering time, mood, and memory, bottled.
Yet the stories never overshadow the spirit. Hazelwood avoids the trap of mythologising provenance until it obscures process. While the releases may lean on nostalgia, they don’t rely on it.
And then there’s the whisky itself. In what might be Hazelwood’s most elegant sleight of hand, the brand unapologetically champions blended and grain whisky - categories long side-eyed by purists who prefer their Scotch peated, pedigreed, and single. But under Kirsten’s watch, these styles have found a kind of radical dignity. The way Kirsten explains it, she is reframing the conversation entirely: this isn’t "good for a grain whisky" - it’s simply excellent whisky, full stop.
This isn’t trend-chasing. Hazelwood’s affection for blends and grains predates the market’s late-breaking epiphany. These are not token gestures; they’re the result of decades of quietly stewarded casks and an unwavering belief in the categories themselves.
Take The Eight Grain - a dram that cheekily upends expectations with a floral-spiced elegance so refined it might just make a proud Speyside single malt turn a shade of jealous pink. These aren’t your run-of-the-mill blends engineered for crowd-pleasing symmetry or easy sips. No, they’re singular, complex, and unapologetically expressive - whiskies that command your attention and generously repay your curiosity.
This rare release is a celebration of what an aged Blended Grain Scotch Whisky can truly embody, weaving together the distinctive personalities of eight of Scotland’s grain distilleries - both shuttered legends and lively stalwarts. It marries the indulgent richness and unctuous decadence of its heritage with bright citrus notes that sparkle like a cheeky grin. Unique and unrepeatable, it’s a dram that revels in its own rarity - and tastes all the better for it.

Kirsten herself occupies a rare space in whisky. She’s both insider and insurgent. The Grant name gets her into the room, certainly - but it also brings a certain pressure to perform the part and to colour within the lines. Her work at Hazelwood resists that. She’s not burning down tradition, but she is retooling it. She sidesteps this neatly. Her leadership is less about performance and more about responsibility. Her approach to luxury isn’t gilded or gaudy - it’s careful, considered, almost archival.
And yes, Hazelwood’s prices are often eye-watering and sold at prices that require a conversation with your financial planner The whiskies are rare, and they’re priced accordingly. But they’re not designed to be fetishised or flipped. They’re designed to be opened. Savoured. Shared. Kirsten knows the optics of releasing ultra-premium bottles from a family vault can be fraught - but rather than brushing those concerns aside, she addresses them head-on. Hazelwood doesn’t pretend to democratise whisky. What it does is treat its audience with respect. These aren’t trophies. They’re time machines.
Kirsten speaks about the collection like a composer might describe an unfinished symphony: there’s form, there’s history, but there’s also improvisation and emotion. At a moment when whisky is being recast as an asset class - where cask investment firms outnumber small-scale distillers - Hazelwood’s quiet refusal to play along feels almost subversive. There’s no race to scale. No need to manufacture scarcity. The scarcity is already there - rooted in singular casks, defunct stills, lost techniques. That alone makes Hazelwood one of the most compelling whisky projects of the past decade.
Kirsten also seems increasingly attuned to whisky’s future - not just in terms of flavour, but culture. Under her direction, Hazelwood has begun engaging more actively with questions of representation and equity. Whether it’s through lighter packaging, championing women in production and leadership, or simply resisting the hollow aesthetics of brand theatre, there’s a quiet moral clarity to her work.
Because ultimately, Hazelwood isn’t about producing whisky that follows fashion. It’s about producing whisky that outlasts it - whisky that is a sensory artifact.
As the evening blurred into the soft haze of city lights, what lingered wasn’t just the astonishing depth of the 57 Year Old Blended at Birth - a rare lovechild of grain and malt, wed as newborn spirits before spending half a century aging side by side in ex-bourbon American oak - nor the flirtatious floral lift of the 39 Year Old Sunshine on Speyside, bursting with honeyed whispers of charred pineapple, mango, and glowing orchard fruit. No, it was something subtler - a quiet sense of having witnessed a brand that’s not out to shout over the crowd, but to quietly enrich the entire whisky conversation.
Under Kirsten Grant Meikle’s watchful eye, House of Hazelwood doesn’t merely bottle history- it unpacks it like a curious detective, challenges its assumptions, and every now and then, tosses it a sly wink from across the room. This isn’t whisky crafted to chase the latest fad or hashtag frenzy; it’s made to outlast the hype and give the zeitgeist a run for its money.
In a world that too often mistakes loud chatter for true meaning, that kind of quiet defiance deserves a proper toast - and maybe a cheeky second dram.
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Words by AW.
Photos courtesy of House of Hazelwood and AW.