An Epicurean Interlude with Penfolds at Sydney’s Glass Brassserie.

On a crisp Sydney evening, Glass Brasserie’s polished elegance set the scene for a rendezvous of rarefied talents and impeccable taste. It was an intimate collision of two artisans at the top of their game - Head Chef Natalie Murphy, whose seasonally attuned creations flirt with perfection, and Penfolds winemaker Shavaughn Wells, custodian of a near-bicentennial wine legacy that refuses to grow old gracefully.

Born in 1844 from the rather noble ambitions of Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold - and his equally industrious wife, Mary - Penfolds began life prescribing fortified tonic wines as a cure-all for the weary. One hundred and eighty years later, it’s fair to say the prescription worked. From these medicinal beginnings, Penfolds has become the beating heart of Australian wine, marrying restless innovation with a reverence for tradition. Today, its portfolio is a treasury of vinous icons - with the likes of Grange holding court on the world stage - proving that some legacies only improve with age, much like the wine itself.

When a wine this legendary shows up, even the cork stands at attention. Penfolds Grange 2018 - not just poured, but performed.

Freshly Shucked Rock Oysters with Salmon Roe

The evening wasted no time in setting a high bar. Freshly shucked Rock Oysters, briny and pristine beneath a jewelled crown of salmon roe, met their match in Penfolds Champagne Rosé NV - and we were instantly smitten. With its fine, persistent bead, bright acidity, and jubilant notes of strawberry and raspberry, this sparkling beauty danced effortlessly around the oysters’ creaminess. A subtle brioche whisper from the lees added just the right amount of intrigue. It was an early highlight of the night - the sort of pairing that makes you briefly consider skipping dinner altogether and devoting yourself to champagne and oysters for the rest of your days.

Southern Rock Lobster Tail Linguine in Bisque

The indulgence deepened with Southern Rock Lobster tail, its sweet, delicate flesh nestled over linguine and cloaked in a bisque so silky it deserved its own fan club. Such opulence demanded a partner of equal complexity - cue the 2018 Penfolds Bin 18A Chardonnay, from the cool, elevated vineyards of Adelaide Hills, a region Penfolds has quietly but confidently championed for its elegant, cellar-worthy whites.

Gently cosseted in oak, this Chardonnay unfurled layers of nectarine, white peach, and toasted almond, all laced with a vibrant minerality that whispered of its high-altitude origins. Its creamy glide and citrus-lifted acidity mirrored the bisque’s decadence and the lobster’s natural sweetness to perfection - a reminder that Penfolds’ genius extends well beyond its celebrated Shiraz and Cabernet royalty.

Wimmera Confit Duck Leg with Jerusalem Artichoke and Citrus

The confit duck leg arrived in all its tender, fall-from-the-bone glory, its richness lifted by a bright flicker of citrus and the earthy embrace of Jerusalem artichoke. Its chosen companion, the 2021 Penfolds Bin 585 French Blend, proved more than up to the task. The Bin series has long been Penfolds’ playground for vinous experimentation, blending the likes of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mourvèdre into bottlings that straddle the finesse of Old World tradition and the swagger of New World fruit.

A relative newcomer to this illustrious lineup, Bin 585 seduced with ripe dark berries, peppery spice, and a whisper of fresh herbs. Supple tannins wrapped themselves around the duck like a well-tailored coat, while a lively acidity sparred playfully with the citrus, underscoring Penfolds’ knack for innovation without ever losing sight of its roots.

Rangers Valley Wagyu Striploin, MB7+ with Silver Beet, Dutch Carrots, and Jus

The ultimate indulgence - Rangers Valley Wagyu MB7+ striploin - demanded wines with equal gravitas, and Penfolds did not disappoint. The 2021 Bin 600, a Shiraz-led powerhouse celebrated for its plush fruit, firm tannins, and layered sophistication, danced effortlessly alongside the dish’s succulent richness and silky jus.

Meanwhile, the 2022 Bin 389 - affectionately known as the “Baby Grange” - offered a teasing contrast with vibrant red fruits, spice, and gently layered oak, inviting guests to explore the full spectrum of Penfolds’ blending brilliance.

Together, these pairings transformed each bite into a dialogue between structure and seduction, showcasing how Penfolds marries power with elegance, and reminding all present why wine – like Wagyu – is at its finest when indulgence is unapologetic.

Bold, briny, sweet, and a little bit mischievous - a cheese board worthy of an encore, especially when a certain legendary companion might be watching.

Maffra Cloth-Ashed Cheddar with Crackers, Muscatels, Quince, and Fig

After a delightfully refreshing palate cleanser, the evening reached its thrilling apex with bold, earthy Maffra cloth-ashed cheddar, accompanied by the sweet flourish of muscatels, quince, and figs - a stage perfectly set for Penfolds Grange 2018. A wine that practically writes the rulebook on Australian winemaking, Grange’s layers of blackberry, dark chocolate, tobacco, and smoky oak have earned it a place among the world’s most coveted and collectible bottles. Its full-bodied richness and steadfast tannic backbone met the cheddar’s pungency head-on, while the sweetness of the accompaniments allowed its complexity to pirouette elegantly across the palate.

Grange, in every sense, is a testament to Penfolds’ pioneering spirit - one of Australia’s earliest wines to garner global acclaim - and its presence here was both commanding and celebratory.

In its essence, the dinner was an eloquent symphony of craftsmanship and heritage. Penfolds’ storied history - from the Barossa’s sun-drenched vineyards to the cool heights of Adelaide Hills - was present in every pour, harmonising seamlessly with Chef Natalie Murphy’s inspired menu, a loving ode to Australia’s finest produce.

Shavaughn Wells’ intimate stewardship of the winery’s legacy imbued the pairings with both confidence and nuance, each revealing the wines’ distinct regional characters and masterful blending philosophies.

Together, they orchestrated an evening where history, terroir, and technique collided with playful elegance - a vivid reminder that Penfolds continues to define Australian wine, daringly pushing boundaries while honouring tradition. For those lucky enough to partake, it was far more than dinner: it was an immersive voyage into the heart of Australian wine and culinary artistry, a night to savour, remember, and aspire to.

For those who missed the soirée, fear not - the experience has been immortalised in a bespoke five-course menu at Glass Brasserie, offered exclusively from 14 August to 30 September 2025. Reservations can be secured via OpenTable - simply choose your preferred time and prepare to immerse yourself in a celebration of wine, gastronomy, and unapologetic elegance.

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Words by AW.

Photos courtesy of Penfolds and AW.