Sydney's vibrant culinary scene boasts a new jewel, one that shimmers with an understated elegance. Allta, the very word a Korean murmur for "rightness," isn't your average Korean restaurant. It's a sanctuary for those who appreciate the subtle art of fine dining, a place where tradition and innovation waltz in a performance both intimate and captivating.
Imagine a hidden gem tucked away on a quiet side street, its entrance marked by a single, glowing lantern. Inside, a hush falls over you. The dimly lit space is a canvas of deep jewel tones and rich textures, the air scented with the subtle aroma of wood smoke and sesame oil. Here, the spotlight is not on the grand décor, but on the artistry unfolding on your plate.
Executive Chef Jung-Su Chang, a culinary voyager whose experience whispers of Michelin-starred havens in Korea,leads the orchestra. At Allta, Chef Chang doesn't raise a booming baton, but rather employs the gentle choreography of a seasoned hand.
He weaves together the delicate grace of Korean customs with the international flair gleaned from his travels. Imagine the audacious spirit of San Francisco's Michael Mina meeting the enigmatic allure of Lescape Hotel L'amant Secret, resulting in a vibrant concerto of flavors, each note a revelation.
The visionaries behind Allta, Jangho So and Sunyoung Kim, are the architects of this delectable dreamscape. Fueled by a passion for food that burns with a quiet intensity, they've embarked on a mission to unveil the true essence of Korean cuisine, not in a dazzling display, but in its most refined form. Gone are the days of hurried, casual encounters. Allta presents a meticulously choreographed ballet of flavors, each dish a testament to culinary artistry served with an understated elegance.
The evening unfolds like a well-rehearsed play, where every detail contributes to the seamless performance. The amuse-bouche, a playful overture, sets the stage with a single, perfect bite. Imagine a glistening jewel of cured tuna nestled amongst fire-kissed vegetables, the entire composition punctuated by the salty whisper of nori seaweed - a perfect morsel that awakens the palate like a herald announcing a royal arrival. Each subsequent course is a revelation, a verse in this captivating poem.
Essentially, Allta's menu isn't a mere list; it's a cryptic score, each dish a whispered verse in a forgotten culinary opera. This is an invitation to a hidden grove, where Korean artistry flourishes. Let us raise the velvet curtain and embark on this captivating exploration:
Beef tartare, a bold melody played on the tongue, takes center stage. Crispy taro, the playful percussionist, adds a rhythmic counterpoint to the barley doen-jang, a deep, earthy bassline resonating from the fertile fields. Kimchi, the fiery chorus, erupts with a burst of vibrant spice, completing this captivating culinary composition.
A refreshing interlude awaits by the jade stream. Naeng-chae, a plate of seasonal vegetables, bathes in a cool, mustard sauce, reminiscent of the stream's gentle murmur. This tranquil melody provides a moment of respite before the opera unfolds further.
With the next course we descend towards the shimmering heart of the grove, where secrets from the deep are revealed.
Seasonal raw fish, a delicate soprano's song, takes center stage, harmonizing perfectly with the smoky baritone of the eggplant namul broth, a mystical potion brewed by the sea witches.
This haunting melody leaves a lingering echo on the palate, a taste of the ocean's hidden magic.
A playful dance ensues with the arrival of the sweet prawn. Perilla oil, a mischievous forest sprite, adds a note of minty intrigue. Cured yolk, a seasoned scholar, not merely provides rich counterpoint but serves as the backdrop against which subtle flavour nuances are projected, while capsicum, a fiery imp, injects a burst of playful heat.
Back on familiar ground, we witness the graceful waltz of calamari under the moonlit canopy. Its soft flesh twirls with the crisp salsify, a captivating dance enhanced by the refreshing whisper of mint, not unlike the fragrance of moonlit blossoms. Kohlrabi, a stoic guardian of the grove, grounds the scene with its earthy wisdom.
Unexpected luxury unfolds in the form of a leek, a statuesque beauty bathed in a pistachio and sesame sabayon, a golden spotlight illuminating its perfect form. Fermented daikon, the resident court jester, injects a touch of playful acidity, a vibrant counterpoint to the opulence.
The path leads us to a comforting haven – guk-bab, a steaming bowl of mushrooms, daikon, and spring onion. This culinary haiku, simple yet profound, offers a warm embrace after the first act's exhilarating journey.
A feast fit for a mountain king awaits. Marron, a magnificent crustacean, sits nestled amongst perilla leaves, its verdant stage curtain. Parsnip and potato, a loyal chorus of mountain spirits, provide a bed of earthy harmony. This decadent aria celebrates the bounty of the sea, a gift from the mountain gods.
A familiar melody returns, this time a full-blown inferno – nabak kimchi. This fiery Korean dragon, awakened from its slumber, ignites the senses once more, a vibrant reminder of the rich tapestry of flavors we've encountered.
The seasonal fish returns, but this time with a different voice. Braised daikon, a deep, resonant bass, provides a powerful counterpoint, like the earth rumbling beneath the phoenix's wings. Porridge and Jerusalem artichoke, a gentle chorus of wind spirits, offer a textural contrast. This second movement unveils a new dimension to the fish's essence, a taste of its rebirth.
The crescendo builds.
Seared beef, a powerhouse tenor, takes center stage. Spring onion, a playful counterpoint, adds a touch of high-pitched vibrancy. Wakame seaweed, the deep oceanic bassline, provides a grounding presence. The ponzu, a citrusy maestro, binds all the flavors together in a harmonious finale.
The service at Allta is the embodiment of discretion. It's a silent symphony of attentive gestures and unobtrusive efficiency. The immensely knowledgeable waitstaff, attired in impeccably tailored attire, glide through the room like phantoms, anticipating your needs before they even arise. Their presence is felt only in the seamless flow of the evening, a testament to their dedication to the art of fine dining. They are the unseen conductors, ensuring your experience remains uninterrupted, a symphony for the senses playing out in perfect harmony.
As the final notes of the symphony fade, one cannot help but sense of contentment washing over you. The makgeolli and rice dessert, a playful reimagining of a traditional Korean drink, is a light and refreshing finale.
Imagine a sorbet infused with the essence of makgeolli, paired with the gentle sweetness of pear granita – a delicate dance on the palate.
The insam, an apple compote infused with the earthy notes of ginseng and the richness of caramel, is a fittingly sophisticated last brushstroke on the canvas of this culinary masterpiece.
Summa summarum, Allta transcends the boundaries of a mere meal. It's a meticulously curated end-to-end performance designed to awaken all the senses. The thoughtful interior design provides the stage, the lighting acts as the spotlight, and the curated playlist serves as the enchanting score.
Every detail, from the impeccably crafted tableware to the subtle hum of conversation, whispers of quality. Here, Korean tradition meets modern innovation in a captivating dance, a performance orchestrated for the discerning palate.
So, if you seek a culinary adventure beyond the ordinary, a place where excellence speaks in hushed tones and the spotlight falls on the artistry on your plate, then look no further than Allta. It's a symphony for the senses, a testament to the transformative power of thoughtful design, curation and a celebration of the vibrant tapestry that is New Korean cuisine.
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Words by AW.
Photos courtesy of Allta and AW.