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What’s Sumatra with you? Will & Co.

I dig coffee – my brain has grown accustomed to the arousal it produces, which results in my feeling passionate about it in a manner that is reminiscent of what Honoré de Balzac penned about and inspired by a cup of quality java.


A good double espresso in the morning does the trick to catapult me straight into productive mode and when my preferred barista is out of reach, it is vital to have the right ingredients to be able to brewing a good cup myself.


While the process of pressuring H2O through grounded coffee beans sounds easy enough, if stars align re: smell, body, acidity, and the chemical reactions set off by the perfectly calibrated heat of the roasting process, something magical happens no matter if the end results tastes bold, fruity or more complex with nuances of citrus and berries.


While there may be many ambiguous variables contributing to complexity and balance along with what is camouflaged by marketing, every now and then one comes across something truly special when looking for the good stuff.


Enter Will & Co.


With a love for coffee and complimentary skills as the common denominator, the collective known as Will & Co set out to make each facet of the coffee process, from sourcing the best beans through to delivery into cup, the best they possibly can.


Understanding the appreciation of coffee as a holistic whole much greater than the sum of obvious individual factors, Will & Co. channel their alchemy in sourcing, blending and making coffee both with a scientific and artisanal approach.


Case in point: Will & Co’s ‘Big Dog’ Probat Drum roaster, which with its slower, more controlled approach to roasting brings out complex flavour nuances.

My favourite Will & Co. expression is their signature "Eight-o-Eight" (808) blend of 100% Arabica beans from Guatemalan and Brazilian origins. With a carefully calibrated balance between the Guatemalan beans having grown at high altitude in rich, fertile volcanic soil between the Agua, Fuego & Acatenango volcanoes in Antigua and the Brazilian equivalent sourced from the tropical savannah regions, the result is a medium-dark-bodied tour de force of floral, slightly acidic aromas dancing on a hazelnutty foundation, which is rounded out via a dominant caramel note.


Three-Oh-Three is Will & Co’s lighter roast with a vibrant acidity, calibrated at a level that allows for nuances on the smoother end of the flavour spectrum to shine, i.e. sweet and buttery layers of caramel that are pervaded by slightly tarty, peanutty and earthy notes, which set the scene for the elongated yet crisp citrussy and zesty crescendo.


Given the quality of what I have had the chance to sample from Will & Co’s, a visit to their café in Bondi Beach seems mandatory.


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T • November 12, 2021

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