In the expansive universe of COMME des GARÇONS collaborations, BLACK COMME des GARÇONS (BLACK CDG) has always occupied a space of deliberate restraint. Stripped of mainline eccentricities yet imbued with an unmistakable air of subversion, the label has consistently championed a brand of minimalism that speaks volumes in whispers. Its latest collaboration with Nike, an Air Force 1 wrapped in tonal black leather, continues this tradition but introduces an unexpected shift: branding.
For years, BLACK CDG's Nike sneakers have been almost monastic in their approach - reverent to form, austere in execution. No embellishments, no overt logos, just the quiet authority of a blacked-out silhouette. This philosophy has been fluently expressed through past collaborations, whether via a shadowy Footscape or an all-white Tennis Classic that rejected the temptation of excess. Like a poet who removes unnecessary words until only the essence remains, BLACK CDG has sculpted its footwear with the precision of a haiku - minimal yet evocative, speaking directly to those who understand its language.
But the BLACK CDG Air Force 1 for Spring/Summer 2025 makes a subtle yet deliberate break from tradition. The sneaker remains a study in monochrome, but this time, the identity of its maker isn’t left to the imagination. A bold, all-caps ‘CDG’ graces the inside heel, while the exterior flaunts a stylized ‘BLACK’ - an almost playful departure from the line’s usual discretion. It is as if a secret society, once known only to the initiated, has chosen to leave its mark in the open.
This isn’t just a branding decision; it’s a statement. BLACK CDG has long operated under a philosophy of anonymous luxury, offering COMME des GARÇONS' unmistakable aesthetic at a price point that, while not exactly accessible, is more approachable than its mainline counterparts. The sub-label itself emerged in 2009 as a response to global financial turbulence, proposing a way to own a piece of the COMME des GARÇONS world without the steep entry fee. And yet, as time has passed, BLACK CDG’s pricing has crept upward, now rubbing shoulders with other CDG diffusion lines like CDG HOMME and CDG SHIRT. Perhaps, then, the branding shift is a reflection of this evolution - an acknowledgment that BLACK CDG is no longer just a quieter, more affordable alternative, but an entity worthy of recognition in its own right.
This transformation mirrors that of certain high-modernist architects who, after years of suppressing ornamentation, began allowing structural elements to become expressive features of their designs. Just as Mies van der Rohe famously proclaimed, “Less is more,” BLACK CDG has long embraced the power of understatement. But here, we see a moment akin to when Le Corbusier’s clean lines made room for organic forms - a subtle but notable shift in self-expression.
Of course, Nike collaborations are nothing new for COMME des GARÇONS at large. Rei Kawakubo’s empire has cultivated a deep relationship with the Swoosh, from avant-garde Foamposites to futuristic Air Carnivores. Even within the BLACK CDG framework, the Nike partnership has been a seasonal fixture, producing iterations of classic silhouettes that vanish almost as quickly as they appear. The BLACK CDG x Nike Air Force 1 is no exception - already selling out at Dover Street Market, proving that even the most understated of reinventions can command attention.
At its core, the BLACK CDG Air Force 1 remains loyal to the sub-label’s ethos: an unpretentious execution of a universally recognized form. But with its unexpected embrace of branding, it also signals a quiet evolution - one that suggests BLACK CDG is no longer content with being an enigma. It doesn’t just want to be known; it wants to be seen. Like a musician who has spent years playing in the shadows of the underground, crafting cult classics with no name on the album cover, BLACK CDG is stepping into the light - not with a roar, but with a knowing glance that says, "Yes, we are here."
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Words by AW.
Photos courtesy of Dover Street Market.