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Ann Demeulemeester: A Fashion Icon's Journey Through the Arts.

Belgium, a nation renowned for its contributions to the art of fashion, boasts a rich history of designers who have pushed the boundaries of creativity and style. Among these luminaries, Ann Demeulemeester stands as a figure whose innovative spirit reshaped the global fashion landscape.


Demeulemeester's meteoric rise commenced in the mid-1980s when she joined a group of visionary graduates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Their ground-breaking showcase at London Fashion Week in 1986 catapulted them into the international limelight as the "Antwerp Six." This avant-garde collective, which included luminaries like Dries van Noten and Walter Van Beirendonck, challenged traditional fashion norms and laid the foundation for a new era of design.


In 1985, Demeulemeester embarked on her own path by launching her eponymous label, collaborating with her husband, the talented photographer Patrick Robyn. Her brand's inception marked the beginning of a transformative journey that would forever alter the fashion landscape.


Paris, the fashion capital of the world, welcomed Demeulemeester's first catwalk show in 1991. In a bold move that signalled her unyielding commitment to pushing boundaries, she became one of the first designers to present both men's and women's collections in a single showcase in 1996. This audacious step was a testament to her pioneering spirit.

Over the years, Demeulemeester cultivated a successful business known for its gothic, bohemian-inspired collections. However, in November 2013, she penned a poignant handwritten letter, delivered via email, announcing her departure from her eponymous label. In her letter, Demeulemeester expressed the belief that her brand had matured into an entity with its own identity and legacy, capable of flourishing independently. It was a testament to her dedication to the growth and evolution of her brand.


Managed through bvba 32, the Ann Demeulemeester brand continues to thrive from its base in Antwerp, with standalone stores in Antwerp, Tokyo, and Hong Kong. Anne Chapelle, who has served as the managing director of Ann Demeulemeester since 1994, owns a significant stake in the company.


Following her departure from the world of fashion, Ann Demeulemeester immersed herself in a different realm of artistic expression. She found herself in the serene Belgian town of Kessel, where she ventured into ceramics. Collaborating with Serax founder Axel Van Den Bossche, she embarked on the creation of a stunning tableware line, adding yet another dimension to her artistic journey.

Since 2019, Demeulemeester has joined forces with Serax to produce a remarkable array of porcelain, cutlery, and glassware collections. This artistic exploration soon extended to encompass lighting and luminous objects, pushing the boundaries of conventional design.

One of the most remarkable chapters in Demeulemeester's post-fashion career unfolded in September 2022. Together with Serax, she unveiled a comprehensive furniture collection that included stools, chairs, tables, consoles, seats, and sofas, each piece reflecting her unwavering commitment to innovation.


Ann Demeulemeester is celebrated for her intelligent approach to design, transcending transient fashion trends. Her work speaks of a continuously evolving world, deeply personal yet profoundly relevant in its context. Demeulemeester's designs emanate integrity and a fierce sense of independence, encapsulating beauty within the interplay of strength and fragility, structure and nonchalance, and preciousness and functionality.


The journey of Ann Demeulemeester is a testament to the power of creativity and innovation. Her legacy extends beyond the world of fashion, embracing various artistic disciplines, and inspiring us to explore the limitless boundaries of human expression.


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Words by AW.

Photos courtesy of Serax and Ann Demeulemeester.


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